MANUFACTURING
A brand of ethical shoes with traditional know-how. Discover the secrets of our handcrafted shoes.
Take a behind-the-scenes look at how our handcrafted boots are made. A real work of art and passion. From our inspirations to the design and technical development of our boots, here we explain everything, step by step.
Our creations are inspired by our desires, our encounters and our experiences. We don’t follow trends, we play by instinct to make beautiful, well-made boots. Inspiration begins with a desire for a specific shape and style. We hunt for materials as we travel. We design, we invent, we reinvent, we tinker. But footwear is all about technique, so of course we take manufacturing constraints into account to sketch out our collections, straight from our heads and hands.
The adventure of our boots begins with the last. Because, yes, the shape of the shoe is the basis of our work. The last is responsible for the character, the style and the fit. The story of our boots begins with a block of wood that’s scraped, polished and chiselled by an artisan shoemaker to obtain the desired volume.
He’s the one who will make our boots a marvel, beautiful and comfortable.
Once the shape has been created, we reproduce our designs directly on the last, just as we imagined them. No programs, no machines. Authentic, traditional, expert gestures that require a “touch” and experience.
Shoe patternmaking is an important stage in the process; it consists of taking the lines drawn on the last and flattening them to produce a “flat pattern”. This operation will define all the parts of the model of our boots: the upper parts, the lining and the reinforcements in particular.
Then comes the decisive choice of materials. But after more than 25 years in contact with the best French and Italian tanneries, our choices are obvious: we aim for the best! Italian vegetable-tanned leathers, and high quality suedes. Noble, top-quality, durable and LWG-certified materials are a guarantee of eco-responsibility. All this for boots that are as beautiful as they are robust!
This is the time for prototyping and adjusting. We assess the shape, the lines, the fit, the materials, the colors and the volume. On average, we go through 6 to 7 prototypes before the final design is ready. Attention to detail is the key to a job well done.
We make sure our models are right in every respect: style, lines and above all… fit. Yes, as you can imagine, feet are all different, so we have to be able to find a suitable fit for all. We take our time, we adjust, it’s a true precision work.
Once our sample pair has been validated (and what a relief!), we move on to the graduation process to produce the full range of sizes so that everyone can buy a pair of Oodoo shoes, from 36 to 47!
Before starting the production, we check the materials. This is an essential step for us if we want to offer a pair of boots of impeccable quality. So we make sure that the material conforms in every respect: thickness, color, hand, feel and appearance.
When everything’s right, it’s off to production ! Did you know that to make just one pair of boots, over 200 manual operations are required ? We love authenticity and craftsmanship.
We start with the cutting, an operation that requires years of expertise. But why? Because it’s a unique skill that requires a lot of knowledge. For example, skins should be cut in a certain way respecting its natural elasticity, more pronounced in one direction than the other. You need to know this before you start. Knowing where to cut, in which direction, and avoiding the weakest parts of the skin (where the fiber is more relaxed and could prematurely age) require a very special know-how.
2ᵉ step: the sewing. There are two phases: the preparation and the actual sewing. The stitching preparation involves all the operations required before assembling the pieces of the boots: trimming, cutting, filling, reinforcing and shaping.
As for the stitching, it consists of assembling all the parts that make up the upper part of the shoe and the lining. As you can see, there’s a lot to do before you end up with the little jewel on your feet.
The Goodyear stitching is designed to make your boots last a lifetime and requires a good deal of skill and experience…
The first stitch joins the welt to the upper and the insole, and the second joins the welt to the sole.
The result? An “overhang”, characteristic of Goodyear stitching, which promises total waterproofing and rock-solid resistance. Our boots are tough ! And with this technique, you can resole them ad infinitum. Isn’t that great ?
A second technique used for our boots is the Blake stitching. It is based on a single seam that connects the upper to the insole and outsole from below.
The Blake stitching is appreciated for its end result, which is finesse and a soft sole – a real treat for your feet!
Although it is perceived as less resistant than the Goodyear stitching, we don’t think so! With the addition of our tire sole, we’ve made it an equal weapon. There’s no direct contact with the ground, so the longevity with the Cousu Blake is just as obvious, with identical waterproofing.
Our famous upcycled tire sole ! Original, isn’t it ? We start with a traditional leather sole and glue a skid to it, made of tires that have been decommissioned by car and motorcycle equipment manufacturers. The tire is pre-cut to obtain the desired volume, and then goes through numerous glassing operations (using sandpaper). The result is a unique sole under your feet, ready for a second lap of the track !
On to the finishing touches… after all these operations, our boots have earned their beauty treatment ! They’re hot-ironed, brushed, waxed and pampered so that they’re in tip-top shape before departure !
Before we send you your beautiful pair of boots, we carry out a strict inspection, looking at them from every angle. We’re serious about quality ! Then we carefully insert them into their box, a cardboard box from FSC-certified forests (because we really care about that), also its shipping box ; that’s better for the planet, and for you, obviously. We place them into an organic cotton pouch and add, depending on the model, a pair of laces, a small jar of natural wax or a piece of crepe (for velvet versions). And that’s our beautifully prepared package !
The desire to create shoes that are ethical, unique, sustainable and above all, boots that look good!
Handcrafted boots straight from our heads, tested and approved.
We manufacture only what is ordered: 0 stock, 0 waste, and all benefits for the planet.
Over 200 successive manual operations are required to create your ethical shoes: 100% handcrafted!
8 weeks max and an eco-friendly packaging: an organic kraft box that serves as a box for you, but also for delivery!
@oodoo.boots
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