THE DERBIES: A RELAXED ELEGANCE AND A SINGULAR HISTORY

The Derby shoe is one of the pillars of the men’s wardrobe, and it has also made its way into women’s fashion. Known for its elegant yet more casual line than its cousin, the Oxford, this open-laced shoe stands out for its practicality, comfort, and timeless style. But do you know its history?

What is a Derby shoe?

Originally a bespoke shoe for an Earl, its History dates back to the 19th century with Edward Smith-Stanley, Earl of Derby and future Prime Minister of England. At that time, the Oxford (a closed-laced shoe) dominated the aristocratic landscape but its narrow design proved ill-suited for wider feet. The Earl, uncomfortable with this lack of ease, asked his bootmaker to design a pair that was easier to put on and better adapted to his morphology. The result: an open-laced shoe, with quarters stitched on top of the vamp. The Derby was born.

One style, many faces.

Over time, the Derby has evolved, giving rise to several variations:

• Plain toe: clean and ornament-free, the most minimalist version: our BONNIE.

• Cap toe: with a horizontal seam across the toe.

• Blucher: featuring shorter quarters (also called “little ears”).

• Buck: made from suede or nubuck, perfect for a more casual touch.

• Chasse and demi-chasse: more robust, often used for outdoor activities.

• Monk Derby: a reinterpreted version with buckles instead of laces

The derby by Oodoo: Bonnie, a refined unisex model, built to last.

For us, the Derby is unisex, embodied by the Bonnie, a low-cut version inspired by our iconic work boot, Angel. Built on the same rounded, slightly muffled last, the Bonnie adopts the open-lacing system for easy wear and maximum versatility. Its design makes it ideal for everyday use, summer or winter, and with any outfit. Whether paired with jeans, chinos, a suit, a dress, or a skirt, this unisex model is incredibly adaptable.

If you appreciate the comfort and character of our vegetable-tanned leather Angel boots, you will undoubtedly fall under the spell of our Bonnie Derby. Made with the same materials, fully leather-lined, and equipped with the same upcycled leather-and-tire sole, this low-cut shoe will surely win you over. Neither too formal nor too casual, its authentic, slightly “gavroche” look carries it effortlessly through seasons and styles. A reliable choice to add to your collection without hesitation.