You can smell the art and passion.

Welcome behind the scenes of our production process.

THE DESIGN

Inspirations

Our creations reflect our desires, our encounters and our experiences. We don’t try to follow trends. The only thing that drives us is our instinct and our taste for uniqueness. We want to make beautiful, well-made shoes that take you far off the beaten track.

Design

It starts with a desire for last, styles and materials, very often from vintage items found on our travels. We start with DIY, handcrafted models to visualise a particular shoe volume. Then we draw until we get a glimpse of what we want and a draft of our collection — all this while taking into account the manufacturing constraints, because shoes are a technical matter and it’s best to master the art.

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT

THE LAST

The last forms the basis of our work. It defines character, style and fit. And so it’s with the last maker that the adventure begins. They use a wooden block to scratch, polish and chisel with to obtain the desired volume. They’re the artist we rely on to find the right compromise between style and fit.

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DRAWING ON THE LAST

Once the last is made, the model previously drawn flat is reproduced with a pencil directly on the last. This is done without a sophisticated program. Hey, we are dealing here with ancient techniques that require a certain ‘feel’ and a lot of experience.

PATTERN-MAKING

This step involves taking the lines drawn on the last and flattening them in order to make a ‘pattern-design.’ The pattern-design is used to obtain all the pieces making up the model: the top pieces, the lining and the various stiffeners.
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CHOICE OF MATERIALS

With over 25 years of contact with the best French and Italian tanneries, we obviously always aspire for the best. Ecopell for its unparalleled vegetal-tanned leathers, Annonay for its Boxcalfs of distinguished excellence, and Ambassador for the quality of its velvets. We use top-quality, durable materials which are LWG-certified, a guarantee of sustainable environmental practices.

PROTOTYPING

This is a crucial phase, as this is where we check the last, lines and fit and judge the materials, colours and more generally overall volume. We sometimes need six to seven prototypes to produce the product we want.
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FINE-TUNING AND MEASURING

Here we make sure the product is right in every respect, from its style to lines, but above all fit. Since no two feet are the same, we have to be able to find a perfect fit. Once the sample model has been approved, we move on to the measuring process, which allows us to produce all the sizes.

PRODUCTION

Did you know that it takes more than 200 manual operations to make a pair of boots?

CHECK OF THE MATERIALS

This is an essential stage during which we make sure the material conforms in every respect, from thickness to colour, hand, touch and appearance.
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CUTTING

Hides have a ‘stretch’ feel, a natural elasticity that is more pronounced in one direction than the other. This is why this operation requires years of experience. You have to know where to cut, which way, and how to avoid the ‘hollow’ parts of the hide (where the fibre is more relaxed and which could pre-maturely age). Price pressure often forces manufacturers to cut to the limit. At Oodoo, we always focus on quality.

STITCHING

There are two phases in the stitching stage: the ‘stitching preparation,’ which brings together all the operations required before joining the pieces (skiving, splitting, filling, inserting stiffeners and shaping), then the actual stitching, with the seaming together of the pieces comprising the upper and the lining.
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GOODYEAR STITCHING

Goodyear stitching means shoes for life! It’s produced by making a first stitch that attaches the welt to the upper and the insole, then a second one that connects the welt to the sole. The result is a so-called ‘extended margin,’ characteristic of Goodyear stitching, which makes the shoe completely waterproofing and durable, with the added possibility of infinite resoling.
Boots black stitching

BLAKE STITCHING

Unlike the Goodyear stitching technique which consists of two seams, the Blake stitching technique is based on a single seam connecting the upper to the insole and the outsole from below. Often perceived as less robust than Goodyear stitching, the addition of our tyre sole put them on an equal footing. They have no direct contact with the ground, and are equally durable and waterproof. Not to mention that Blake stitching is particularly appreciated for its end result: a smooth and supple sole.

BOTTOM ASSEMBLY

To obtain our famous tyre sole, we start with a traditional leather sole which we glue the previously cut tyre sole to. This is followed by glassing operations (sanding with sandpaper) to produce the desired volume. And that’s it, ready for a second lap!
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FINISHING

After all these operations, our boots fully deserve a little beauty treatment! They’re hot-ironed, brushed, waxed and done up to look their best before the start!

QUALITY CONTROL AND PACKAGING

Before each shipment, our boots are rigorously checked from every angle. We wrap them in an organic cotton bag before packing them in a single cardboard box, made from FFC-certified forests, which serves as both a shoe box and a shipping box.
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